Why I Loved Vlorë in Shoulder Season
I visited Vlorë in September and October. The tourists had thinned, the sunbeds had vanished, and the city felt like it belonged to the people who actually live there.
I was in Vlorë from mid-September to late October 2025. Shoulder season. That timing was planned; it's when the UK weather drops off and summer becomes a distant memory. Looking back, it was perfect timing.
What Shoulder Season Actually Felt Like
September was still very hot. The beaches had swimmers. Cafés were busy but not overwhelmed. It felt like summer with the volume turned down slightly.
Once October arrived, things shifted. The deckchairs and parasols started disappearing from the beaches. Most tourists had gone home. The Lungomare, which apparently heaves in July and August, felt spacious and calm. For a Brit it was still shorts and t-shirts throughout.
I could walk the main beach without navigating through crowds. I could sit at seafront cafés without waiting for a table. The city felt like it belonged to the people who actually live there rather than the people passing through. For someone testing out what daily life here might feel like, that mattered.
The Weather Numbers
September 2025:
- Average high: 27°C (80°F)
- Average low: 16°C (61°F)
- Days with rain: 3
- Rainfall: 62mm (higher than average)
October 2025:
- Average high: 21°C (70°F)
- Average low: 10°C (50°F)
- Days with rain: 8
- Rainfall: 119mm
October marks the start of Vlorë's rainy season. I had a few rainy days, but they didn't spoil the trip. The rain came, did its thing, and cleared. I still wore shorts most days. I never needed heating in the apartment, just a blanket to sleep in the evenings.
What Changes After Summer
The beaches open up. By October, the commercial sunbed operations pack away. What's left is actual beach: sand, sea, space. If you want to paddle walk along the shore without obstacles, shoulder season delivers.
The prices ease. I didn't compare directly to summer rates, but locals told me accommodation costs drop after the peak season ends. My negotiated rate of €700 per month would have been higher in July.
The atmosphere shifts. Summer Vlorë is apparently a holiday destination. Autumn Vlorë is a city going about its business. The cafés still fill up, but with locals meeting friends rather than tourists ticking off a list.
The light changes. For photography, the lower sun angle in autumn created beautiful morning and evening light. The golden hour stretched longer. The colours were lovely.
The Trade-Offs
Nothing is perfect. Here's what shoulder season means:
Some places close. Beach bars and summer-specific businesses on the Lungomare start shutting down through October. If your ideal trip involves busy beachfront nightlife, you'll find less of it.
Rain happens. October had eight rainy days. Not all-day rain usually, but enough to keep an umbrella handy. If you hate any rain at all, September is safer than October.
Swimming gets cooler. The sea was still swimmable in early October, but not as hot to dry off.
Fewer tourists means fewer tourist services. Some tours and activities wind down. If you want everything running at full capacity, peak season delivers that.
Why It Worked for Me
I wasn't in Vlorë to tick off tourist attractions. I was there to test what daily life might feel like, to see if this could be a place to spend more time.
For that purpose, shoulder season was ideal. I saw the city without the summer mask. I walked beaches without crowds. I sat in cafés without competing for space. I got a sense of what the ordinary days feel like for people who live here year-round.
The quieter streets also made it easier to meet locals. When a city isn't in full tourist mode, conversations happen more naturally. People have time. The rhythm is slower.
I like to walk over 7 miles and explore, the weather was perfect for that.
The Timing Sweet Spot
If I went back, I'd aim to start in September again. It's hot for beach days, and dry enough to avoid the rains, quiet enough to feel the real city.
October worked well too, I felt the season ending was a bonus. If you stay from October through the winter rents would be considerably cheaper. And the weather... well its still better than a UK winter.
For anyone considering Vlorë as a longer-term base rather than a holiday destination, shoulder season is a good time. The weather is still good. The costs are reasonable. And you see what life actually looks like when the tourists go home.
That's what I needed to know.